Basque & Bordeaux: Vines, Waves, and Michelin Ways
From hot‑air balloons to 100‑point pours — inside our curated Once-in-a-Lifetime Journey.
La Rioja, Spain — Check‑In with a View
The harvest air smelled like possibility. We arrived at Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Frank Gehry’s ribboned sculpture tucked among the vines — part museum piece, part wine temple. At sunset, our Journey Director, Ernes, lifted a glass on the Rooftop Lounge and the titanium glowed gold. Dinner at 1860 Tradición set the tone: classic Rioja flavors, beautifully modern on the plate.
Rioja, Decanted
We opened the day with a masterclass: terroir, Tempranillo, and why the Ebro bends matter. Then to Marqués de Murrieta — freshly crowned Best Winery in the World (2023) — for a seven‑course pairing where every pour felt like a thesis on elegance. Historic bones, contemporary polish, and service that moved like choreography.
Balloons at Dawn, Stars by Night
Choose‑your‑own Rioja: spa serenity, a winery deep‑dive, or a hot‑air balloon drift over patchwork vines. I watched burners flare and baskets rise — pure quiet joy. Afternoon in Laguardia, its medieval lanes and wine tunnels hiding centuries of secrets. We lunched al fresco at Casa Primicia — suckling lamb grilled over vine wood, laughter curling up into the leaves. Nightfall brought Venta Moncalvillo, a two‑Michelin‑star love letter to the garden; each course was a study in restraint and reverence.
Cellars, “Dusty Bottles,” and a Coastal Tease
We descended into the labyrinth at Conde de los Andes and tasted history — yes, a “dusty bottle” 1983 that had us whispering. At Remírez de Ganuza, precision ruled: immaculate fruit, impeccably tailored reds. Lunch at Tierra y Vino in Palacio Samaniego leaned French‑Basque and seasonal. Then onward to San Sebastián and the Hotel María Cristina, where pintxo‑hopping became a verb. One bar, one masterpiece at a time — the city welcomed us like locals.
San Sebastián by Land and Sea
We split between a breezy bike tour and a walking/drive combo — necessary penance for our pintxo enthusiasm. Then sails up for a run to Pasajes; sunshine turned to wind and waves (and grins), and Members took the helm with a captain’s swagger. Ashore at the Albaola shipyard — reserved privately for our group — we tasted Urpean wines aged under the sea. We closed in Hondarribia, Ernes’ hometown, at his traditional Gastronomic Society: a long table, hands‑on cooking, locals’ songs, and that feeling of belonging you can’t bottle.
Cheese, Txakoli, and a Michelin Grill
At Ondarre in Segura, a two‑century‑old family farm introduced us to the true artisans — the sheep. We sipped sea‑sprayed Txakoli at hill‑hugging Ameztoi, then lingered over expertly grilled fish and crystalline wines at Elkano, No. 24 on World’s 50 Best. Simple. Sublime.
A French Flirtation & Three Stars
A leisurely day in Biarritz delivered markets, cafés, and Atlantic light. Back in San Sebastián, we saved our dressiest shoes for Arzak — a three‑star icon where tradition and invention share the same sentence. A Member celebrated her birthday, and Chef Elena Arzak made the evening feel like both theatre and home.
Walking Sticks & French Picnics
We pointed the convoy toward France, beginning at Anciart‑Bergara Makhila, where seven generations craft personalized Basque walking sticks engraved with Euskera blessings. Lunch at Moulin d’Alotz, a countryside star with clucking chickens and witty ceramics, felt like a modern art picnic. By day’s end we rolled into Saint‑Émilion and checked into Château Grand Barrail, sunset gilding the vines.
Bordeaux, In the Vine
A Bordeaux masterclass sharpened our palates for the Right Bank. Then châteaux royalty: Troplong Mondot and Pavie under spotless skies and peak harvest energy — sorting tables humming, de‑stemmers singing. Dinner at La Table de Pavie turned theatrical: a playful, under‑the‑napkin course (no ortolans here — ingenious pigeon with foie gras) and more birthday cheers for Members.
Grand Cru, Grand Finale
At Château Smith Haut Lafitte, we wandered sculpture‑studded vineyards, punched down the cap during pigeage, and lunched at La Table du Lavoir. Back at the hotel, a once‑in‑a‑lifetime 100‑Point Tasting: five unicorn wines, each a Parker 100, averaging €800 a bottle. Ranking them sparked spirited debate; a perfect prelude to our stained‑glass farewell dinner at Grand Barrail.
Wheels Up
Departure day dawned reluctantly. After an indulgent week of vines, waves, and stars, our Members headed home — lighter in spirit, heavier in… well, you know. New friends, new favorites, and a promise to return.
